How To Rebuild Everbest Petcocks
by Craig Vechorik
Everbest petcocks (used up to the /5) are rebuildable. I do it all the time and so can you.
wheel bearing grease
a light hammer
a roll of cork gasket material sold at auto parts stores (one-eighth inch thick)
a razor blade or X-acto knife
a 3/16-inch drill bit
Take the leaking petcock from the motorcycle. Examine it carefully to
be sure it is worth rebuilding. The brass tubes should not be split.
The outside of the pot metal should be solid (no holes). If the outside
looks good, take it apart to check the inside.
Take the leaking petcock apart.
Carefully cut the crimped part of the body away from the area around
the lever. An X-acto knife or razor blade works well for this. A sharp
blade will trim the crumpled pot metal of the petcock.
Before working on the petcock, protect the threads. Screw both nuts
(the one that holds the spigot to the petcock and the one that holds
the petcock to the gas tank) back onto the petcock.
Hold the body of the petcock in a vise with the tubes to the top or
bottom. With pliers, pull the lever plug out. Clean the outside surface
of the plug with 600 sand paper. Carefully examine the plug. If the
surface is pitted, you might as well forget this petcock valve and find
another one to rebuild. If everything is in good shape, you're ready to
replace the cork.
Replacing the cork.
Lay a sheet of 1/8-inch cork gasket material on a flat surface.
Carefully and accurately cut a rectangle 1 31/32 inches by 1 1/16
inches. It is very important that you make straight, accurate cuts in
the cork. You can bevel one inside edge of the cork (a 1 1/16-inch end)
to help insure a tight seal.
Thoroughly clean inside the body of the petcock and remove all of the
old cork gasket. A round wire brush as used by plumbers works well for
this. Roll the cork into a cylinder-shape. Lightly grease inside the
body of the petcock with wheel bearing grease to help ease the cork
into the body. Position the cork seam at one side of the body. Push the
cork into the body of the petcock.
Examine the cork.
The cork should be flush with the inner lip. The cork should appear
seamless; no evidence of gaps. If you weren't accurate with your cuts
and the cork doesn't seem quite right, remove it and try again.
Once the cork is perfect, it's time to reassemble the petcock. Be sure
the spacer washer is still on the plug and insert the plug into the
body of the petcock. After you get the plug started inside the petcock,
use a vise as a press to squeeze the assembly back together.
Crimp the pot metal of the body back over the plug to retain the plug
in the body. A small center punch and a light hammer will do the job.
Select a drill bit which will slip into the brass tubes. I use a
3/16-inch bit. Turn the petcock to the "on" position. Don't be alarmed
as to how tight it seems. It will loosen with use. Insert the drill bit
in the long brass tube. Use your fingers on the drill bit to drill out
the cork that covers the holes in the plug. Turn the petcock to the
"reserve" position and drill out the cork inside the short brass tube.
Blow out the petcock with compressed air to remove any small crumbs of cork from the passages. The petcock is ready to install.
If you drain your tank in the future and remove the petcock, remember
to put the petcock in a sealed jar with gasoline to store it and to
prevent it from drying out. The cork drying out is the main reason it
failed in the first place!
Can you patch holes in petcock bodies?
Not to my knowledge. I have had limited success using these
low-temperature propane torch rods for "welding" aluminum and pot metal
that J.C. Whitney and Eastwood Supply sells. I say limited, for pot
metal is tricky. Too hot, and the whole thing melts, without warning.
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