|4) Re-torque the head bolts ("torque the heads").
To do this, take a 14 mm torque wrench and set it at 28 foot/pounds. Check each head bolt by tightening it to 28 foot/pounds. You should do this to the four head bolts in an "X" pattern. If you have an R69 or a R69S, there will be six head bolts. If the head bolts do move at 28 foot/pounds of force, usually you will find that the valve lash (clearance between the valve stem and the end of the rocker arm) will close tight. That's why you must use a feeler gauge to re-adjust them.
|5) To actually set the valves, you need a 11 mm and 12 mm wrench and a
.006 (.015 metric) and .008 (.020 metric) feeler gauge. The .006 for
the intake valve and the .008 for the exhaust.
6) Take a 12 mm wrench and loosen the jam nut on the adjuster bolt at the end of the rocker arm.
|8) Insert the proper gauge between the rocker arm and the end of the valve stem. Finger-tighten the adjuster nut while the gauge is still between the rocker arm and the valve stem. At this point, you should not be able to pull out the feeler gauge with a moderate pull. Now, place a 12 mm box end wrench on the lock nut and slap the wrench tight in one motion. If the threads of the adjuster bolt and the jam nut have not been excessively pulled by the previous owner, eight out of ten times, the adjuster bolt will not move as the jam nut is tightened. The act of tightening the jam nut will stretch the adjuster bolt just the correct amount so that you will obtain the desired clearance of .006 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust.|